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Exterior
Disassembly
Control
Unit Removal |
| 1. |
5mm Hex key, ball end preferred |
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2.
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3mm Hex key, ball end preferred |
| 3. |
#2 Phillips™ head screwdriver, long |
| 4. |
Small flat blade screwdriver, NON-MAGNETIC tip |
| 5. |
Medium flat blade screwdriver, suitable for use
as pry bar |
| 6. |
T25 Torx™, tamper-proof |
| 7. |
T30 Torx™, tamper-proof |
| 8. |
Adjustable fuel flow restriction clamps, qty: 3 though
2 will work,
refer to photo in step 8 |
| 9. |
Masking tape: useful for labeling fuel lines, vent hoses,
screw locations |
| 10. |
Clear RTV silicone |
| 11. |
Medium wire ties, qty: 2, for fuel tank vent hoses @ fuel
cell |
BMW service manual 01 51
9 799 333 is very helpful and provides detailed instructions
on fairing removal and bike disassembly down to the control unit.
This instruction set provides a basic task list to follow, though
presumes mechanical familiarity and confidence in disassembly
of the bike.
Electrostatic discharge (ESD) mat and wrist ground strap are
highly recommended. |
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1. Remove left and
right side wing bumper covers and silver trim panels; 2. Remove
left and right side mirrors; 3. Remove both adjustable airfoils; 4. Remove
both front turn signals; 5. Remove both side fairings; remove
small center panel below glove box; 6. Remove upper fuel tank
cover/radio/center console; 7. Remove front seat and seat mounting
frame; 8. Remove fuel tank. NOTE: LESS FUEL IS BETTER
at this stage of the procedure.
(K1200RS shown at right) Up to 2002 model year: Clamp
off the fuel supply and return hoses, on tank side
of fuel
hose-barbed splice connections. These are
the hoses that are towards the front of the hose splice junction,
and MUST be clamped to avoid substantial fuel loss.
For additional
reduction
in fuel spillage
and loss, also clamp off the fuel return hose (upper hose) on other
side of hose-splice junction. 2002 model year: Late bikes are equipped with
a quick-connect fitting (not shown). Simply
depress the spring and pull fittings apart; push together to reconnect. 
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| 1. The
E-box (plastic housing where control units are stored) should be
readily
visible now hatchet has been
removed. Remove the three Phillips™ head control unit mounting
screws, as shown below. The third screw is not shown in the picture
due to index finger placement. |
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2. Pull control unit away from E-box mounting
plate. Note that the electrical harness connection is permanently
fixed to this baseplate. Exercise care when reinstalling to ensure
that all pins are lined up within the connector housing. |
NOTE: DURING NEXT STAGES OF
CHIP INSTALLATION AND REPLACEMENT, IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE POTENTIAL
FOR STATIC DISCHARGE BE ELIMINATED OR REDUCED. GIVEN THE MEANS BY
WHICH INFORMATION IS STORED ON THE EPROM, IT IS POSSIBLE TO ERASE,
CORRUPT, OR DAMAGE THE FILE FOR EITHER STOCK OR PERFORMANCE MAPS,
OR CONTROL UNIT WITH ANY FORM OF ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE. AN ESD
MAT AND WRIST GROUND STRAP ARE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
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| 3. Place
the control unit face up on a clean, dust-free countertop or workspace
with the BMW/Bosch label
facing you. Remove four T-30 Torx™, tamper-proof screws as shown. |
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| 4. Gently,
and with non-magnetic slot-head screwdriver, pry the case-halves
open from topside. Remember! The top has the label. NOTE: The factory
silicone bead has high adhesion characteristics; two screwdrivers
may be required to slowly break this bead, allowing some material
to remain on both case-halves. The adhesive has a nasty tendency
to pinch fingertips when the halves snap together, so BE CAREFUL! |
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| 5. Lift cover off of the control unit
from left-hand side as shown. NOTE: Main printed circuit board should
remain attached to the bottom cover. |
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6. Locate
the socketed chip on the printed circuit board; this can be easily
identified by the
white plastic "H" shaped retaining clip, which holds
the chip securely in place. This clip is shown in front of the
thumb
in step #5. Also note, that this chip stands taller than any of
the other chips mounted on the board. Remove the H-clip using a
NON-MAGNETIC
thin blade screwdriver, inserted into one of the two small slots
opposite each other, in the center of the clip. Gently pry the
screwdriver up, away from the circuit board. This should pop the
clip upwards
and loose on this side. Use same procedure on the other side of
the retaining clip.
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| 7. Note installation direction of the
EPROM; this is designated by a notch formed in one end. As shown
here, the notch goes to the outside edge of the control unit. Serious
damage could result if a chip is installed backwards, so this is
a critical step. |
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| 8. Remove the chip from its socket by
inserting the NON-MAGNETIC thin blade screwdriver between the short
end of the chip and the socket, as shown. Pry upwards gently. Work
slowly and gently pry from alternating ends of the chip. DO NOT pry
the socket away from the printed circuit board! Make sure that it
is the EPROM that is being removed. Avoid skin contact with the legs
or pins on the chip as well, holding the silicon wafer from the short
ends. Set the original program chip in or on the anti-static plastic
box to avoid possibility of static charge damage. |
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9. Photo shows new encryption board and
EPROM to be installed. First, install the encryption board into the
existing, now vacant socket on the circuit board. Note that the small
black dot on the left-hand edge of the encryption board (with KEY
130 or KEY 101 legible at lower RH corner) will correspond to the
notch orienting the pins to their correct addresses. Partially install
the far row of legs or pins into the socket. Use thumbs and index
fingers to gently compress and align the near side row of pins into
the relevant sockets. Exercise caution to avoid bending the pins!
Carefully inspect the alignment of the pins to their corresponding
sockets. Only when certain of correct alignment, gently press the
encryption board downward and into place. Avoid excessive circuit
board deflection. Follow same procedure for installation of performance
chip into the encryption board.
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10. Store
the existing stock EPROM in the black plastic box that the performance
EPROM was shipped
inside to avoid accidental erasure. 11. Reassemble control unit
in reverse order. NOTE: The H clip will not be reinstalled. Also,
run a thin bead of clear RTV
silicone over
the existing sealer. This will prevent moisture intrusion into
the control unit. 12. Reinstall control unit, fuel tank, and
remaining fairing trim pieces. ©All images copyright
Rhine West Performance, Inc. 2002
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